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Baron
Baron's picture
Where? But what if.............

So I'm thinking how nice it would be to one-up BushHog Bill up there in BC, you know the guy that has so many of his ducks in a row that they don't need watching, and whose trees fall on their own and come to the mill when he calls them by name and his equipment is washed daily whether it was used or not. I'm considering going entirely indoors with AC and heat. I'd like to hear how you folks would do it if you had to. Should I turn my HD36 into an electric mill or should I attach exhaust tubing to the motor. How would you handle the saw dust, bark and trash slabs? 

I'm looking forward to your solutions. 

 

Just funning with you Bill. At least you're known for being a good steward.

Bill
Bill's picture

Elec. would be my dream nice and quiet. The rest is your problem smiley

Baron
Baron's picture

I can't imagine how nice that would be. So far the only Member I know that uses electric is Steinar. Its cold here and it would be nice to continue milling indoors.

Bill
Bill's picture

Unfortunately totaly closed in isn't practical best you can hope for is enough shelter to stay out of the wind. Darn cold here as well and a fair amount of snow. I milled all winter a few times and was wishing I had some gensing fabric to hang across the end of my building to stop the wind. 

Hold yard was a sht. of ice.

Across this end is where I'd like to hand some fabric on a cable so I can slide it back and forth.

Funktionhouse
Funktionhouse's picture

This is how I did it... Saint Petersburg, FL 33712Monday 5:00 PMSunnySunny65°F | °CPrecipitation: 0%Humidity: 40%Wind: 7 mphTemperaturePrecipitationWind 655954525152637069646158575869747368656462627075746967646364717574706664636370747369666362637276746966656363727674696765646573767369686766667375726765646363697168646361595967716863626059606972696463626161687067646363626167696763616 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PM12 AM3 AM6 AM9 AM12 PM3 PM6 PM9 PMMonClear65°50°TueMostly Sunny72°56°WedMostly Sunny76°61°ThuSunny77°62°FriMostly Sunny77°62°SatMostly Sunny75°61°SunPartly Cloudy78°62°MonPartly Cloudy77°63°

 

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

One thing I would consider is the cost; how much will it cost to run exlectric, and how much with the current engine.

 

If you try and run it with the current engine, make certain you have a CO alarm! Maybe more than one. They don't cost much, and can save your life.

Maybe mount it on your saw, and use the relay as a shutoff device?

http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/safety-accessories/auxiliary-devices/co120x/

 

 

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

I've thought about electric with a 3-phase generator so all the noise and exhaust are outside.  For portable jobs, the generator could go on the back of my flatbed.  I figure 30 kW would be a good size for a small sawmill.  It would also also be a good backup for the house.

Baron
Baron's picture

Rub it in Functionhouse. My folks lived in Navarre FL on the coast and it was nice until summer came.

 

Bill. I know how it feels. While we don't get the snow like Deuchie, Bill Mac and many others it is cold and I can't take it like I once bragged I could. I think my antifreeze is getting slushy and in need of a smudge pot (anyone remember them in hwy equipment use). What type of fabric would you use?

 

Roland: always the safety guy. Those alarms would certainly be needed if i run the motor indoors. Thanks

 

Baron
Baron's picture

Postie What size would of a machine would that be. how much would it weigh?

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

It would be something like this one on Craigslist near Kansas City: http://joplin.craigslist.org/tld/5933420334.html

My ultimate system is fueling the genset with wood gas from sawmill slabs with a by-product of charcoal.

Baron
Baron's picture

That could run allot of professional equipment (welders etc) plus my whole neighborhood (18 spa's, 75 houses and all the christmas lights to boot).

It would be noisy though.

Baron
Baron's picture

Roland I like that relay devise and it would be great but I'd have to put an alarm on it also so I don't spend the rest of the day trying to figure out why the mill wont start ( Like i did the time I used the red emergency cut-off switch as a stop switch).

Baron
Baron's picture

My HD36 is powered by the 23 vanguard. Would 10hp Single phase be enough power. The factory seems to think it would be okay. What do you think.

Baron
Baron's picture

Bill I use a concrete barrel on my tractor for ballast. From time to time I need to grade out the yard and I thought a blade may suffice for both ballast and a grading blade, similar to the blade shown in your photos. How much do the blades weigh and would I still need to add some ballast?

Bill
Bill's picture

Baron the blade it that pic. was sold with that tractor I made it with 3/4" I beam so it was heavy  the one I have now is factory but still weighs a few hundred # and because they are back quite a ways offer a fairly good counter balance with no added weight.

   As far as elec. motors go 10 HP due to their torch should be sufficient  from what I've read from others experience but I'd further investigate. One fella had an elec. 5 HP and said it did just fine.

Baron
Baron's picture

Thanks Bill I'll look into it further. Both the blade and the electric motor. Where did you buy the new blade? was it used? Did you add the wet-lines? It looks like a nice set-up.

Bill If you post your address and shirt size. I'm sure that forum members could donate some decent work-shirts since yours is kind of tattered.

I also like the slab rack in your photos (we discussed earlier) and I've since built a similar one.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

The electric motor should have the torque to do the job.

That definitely looks like a decent generator.

The one I have is great, but small. It will do what I need, but not a lot extra.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9hiGcsIM8WPOWwyYmtFbXg0OUU/view?usp=sharing

 

7.5 Kw when running Diesel, 7 when on propane (I have propane, because it doesn't gel when cold).

The think I like is it runs at 1800 RPM instead of 3600, so it can run for says and not heat up the bearings and moving parts.

Baron
Baron's picture

I know precious little about Electric and never cared to learn but as the years go by it seems the way I will go some day.

Is your generator rated for 3 Phase or single phase and can it do both?

Is that controlled by the other systems on the genset such as an inverter?

Could you give me the short lesson of what is on a genset like the ones that you and Postie have shown?

How many Hrs can they run in a lifetime and what wears out first, the motor or the generator?

What does it cost to rebuild? What does it cost to rewind the generator?

Do Many folks use these for solo generation for around the clock use?

Do they turn on and off automatically? do you use a supplemental battery pack for storage?

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

Mine actually has a bundle of wiring options; I sent you a link to the manual/ It can do 60 Hx 3-phase, 4 wire.

It is rebuildable; I bought it about 10 years ago from my local electrical dealer, who had bought it back from someone off-grid that was moving up to a bigger generator.

It's been running dependably since then, when I am in the Wallowas. Had to change the ignition (it was set up with points, that didn't like long breaks of being off; now it is electronic ignition). 

Aside from that, I add oil once in a while. Starts easily.

Only real downside; as the load increases, the timing of the waveform gets longer. If you have an electronic device that uses the cycle as the timer get wierd. I noticed that when my microwave was working correctly, but the clock on my stove was getting way behind.

 

As to durability, I like the low RPM because high RPMs generate more heat in the bearings and such; the oil gets hotter, and breaks down faster.

Running at only 1800 RPM on propane, which is cooler burning anyway, it doesn't generate enough heat to cause any friction or oil breakdown. 

The engine is cast iron, with sleves, so I don't see any reason it can't be rebuilt forever.

Look online for Onan JB series generators.

Here's an online manual with detailed information on mine (with the point;based ignition)http://www.twinslan.net/~n0nas/manuals/onan/967-0500%20Onan%20JB%20JC%20...(11-1971)bestmanual.pdf

It shows how to wire it for different current configurations.

 

Bill
Bill's picture

Lots of good blades out there I think many are set up for manual or hydraulics ( this one was) and by adding my own cylinder and hoses I saved $1,200. A couple hoses and 8" stroke cylinder were less than $150.00

Baron
Baron's picture

Sounds economical. I dont have a quick change bucket/forks and so it would b nice to have a blade back there.

Bill
Bill's picture

Baron some of us work the sleves right off our shirts in no time. Ripping and tearing through the bush is hard on my jackets as well if your oblidged to send me a new one I only like snaps buttons don't last a day smiley. You'll be able to pic. this jacket up on Ebay in a wk. or so for a pultry sum. 

Baron
Baron's picture

Lol, at-a-boy! Some rich kid will be walking down fifth avenue next month just bragging his head off bout' his style choices. 

Bill
Bill's picture

Here's the blade I bought a 7' .

http://mkmartin.ca/products/graderBlade.php

Baron
Baron's picture

My tractor is 84" wide so will I be gtting stuck all the time? will I need the 8 footer? It appears to be pretty heavy gage steel.

Bill
Bill's picture

I'd definitely get an 8' if my tractor were larger . They do appear fairly heavy duty and I haven't broke mine yet but I've only had it 2 winters. Every snow fall it gets from 4 to 6 hrs. use . I paid $800 for it . If I was really extravagant I would have bought one with a side shift as well.

Baron
Baron's picture

Ford offered one of them but they are huge. My yard is small and I'm only grading light gravel and wood chips. 

wayne busse
wayne busse's picture

I have an 8' and a 6' blade, the 6' only weighs around 120 lb. The eight foot woods still only weighs close to 200 lb. Then there are some really heavy-made ones. My brother's is over 600lb. Find some old tractor weights and hang them on a light weight blade. I have two Heston weights on my six footer just to made it cut better on my gravel drive.

Keep in mind, the eight footers have category two pins.

The ultimate rear counterweight is a Bush hog with a dozen concrete blocks on it.

Baron
Baron's picture

Hi Wayne. My yard is so small that I barely  have room for the tractor. A bush hog would really put me over the limit.  I like the tractor wait idea. 

wayne busse
wayne busse's picture

I have some Massey weights that have a  hook on them that will hang on the top of the blade . Easy-peasy.

Despite all the safety stickers on the tractor, I use the loader as a scaffolding to pick apples and build projects. With the bush hog just touching the ground, it's like having outriggers.

Baron
Baron's picture

I hear you Wayne. Done a bit of that type of stuff.... we all have I guess. 

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