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Baron
Baron's picture
Jointers

I'm not looking to hijack the forum but I'd like to have a go-to group for info on a Grizly 8" non-spiral Jointer. At this point I Just bought it and will not get to look at it until the weekend. It was owned by a retired guy next door and he was cleaning up and getting rid of everything. I got the machine for $200 and it appears to be in usable condition. 240V. Its just dangerous enough of a tool that good advice is good to have

I'd be happy to talk about it in the forum or privately by PM. Let me know if you have this jointer or one of their 6,10 and 12" grizly jointer.

 

Baron

Bill
Bill's picture

Baron there's not a lot of dif. between jointers . Plane about 1/64 off at a time use push blocks and keep your fingers out of the blades. I don't have a Grizzly jointer but I have a grizzly set up jig for the blades on my ? 8" jointer.

Baron
Baron's picture

Ah, what pray tell is a set-up jig? Is that a blade adjustment jig? It sounds handy.

Bill
Bill's picture

One of these things Baron I have a micrometer set that was a few $100 given to me but this one is much simpler to use.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Jointer-Pal-Polycarbonate-Body-Up-to-8-/W1210A

Baron
Baron's picture

Ah, what pray tell is a set-up jig? Is that a blade adjustment jig? It sounds handy.

Why only 1/64. Its a powerful machine and is rated for 1/8". Is there another advantage to 1/64th" I'm not seeing? I've never used a jointer very much. I know that with my Woodmaster Planer the specs say 3/16th but it won't do more than 1/32 on non-uniform wood.

Baron
Baron's picture

Hey Bill I see how that works, nice, practical.

 

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

The biggest thing to look at for a jointer is how often the blade hits the board for a certain distance. Number of blades, feed speed, and RPM are the variables for that.

Too slow of RPM, too fast of feed speed on a one or two blade joiner, and you will have dimples in the surface. You can minimize that by taking shallower cuts.

 

Baron
Baron's picture

In other words the dimples would be shallower and less noticable on the glue line? any tips on face planing?

eddiemac
eddiemac's picture

I have a lot of experience on a Grizzly G0490, non-spiral.  Is that what you have?  You got a heck of a deal on an 8" jointer 

Baron
Baron's picture

Eddie,

I'm not sure of the model, it was dark,  Any one of Grizzly's 8" would have done nicely. Their leese was up and they had no where to go with it. They had an interested party who backed out on a deal so they were gonna send it to scrap along with a long list of other stuff I with I had time to talk them out of. $200 bucks.  They also had 6 or 700 bd ft of beautiful walnut and cherry flitches. Some of the cherry is quilted. I paid 300 for it all. After carrying it out I realized they were about ten percent bad in one way or another. I told the guy that I know flat out that I'm taking advantage of his circumstances, i felt bad, and that it was all worth more. I went on to say that my offers were low cause I really didn't need the stuff. He replied that he understood what was hapenning, I was helping him out, he was grateful it was going to good use. 

I'm pretty sure its the 0490 and will confirm this weekend.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

If you are making shallow cuts, the dimples will be shallow, and from one pass to another, they will offset. Something that you can take down with a quick pass with a sander.

If you need to take off a lot of material, just have the last pass or two be shallow.

They are usually shallow enough that the compression of the glue joint will make them disappear.

Baron
Baron's picture

Well Men, It turned out to be a mixed Bag, The Walnut and Cherry turned out to be a little more than I though but the Grizzly Jointer turned ou to be the old stanby G1018. It can't be converted to spiral head, but hey, its a nice old machine. The manufacturers plate is missing on both the motor and the machine so I did a thorough photo shoot and sent them to Grizzly and they were able to I.D. It will be a nice autumn project to put it into service. 

clam lake dave
clam lake dave's picture

I have the 6 inch and it works fine. Only 110

I will be ordering the 12 inch spiral head this fall.

What is the deal with posting photos. Photobucket wants 400 dollars to post on third party sites?

Baron
Baron's picture

Yep. They don't much like us woodsie types I recon!

 

clam lake dave
clam lake dave's picture

What is the work around?

 

Baron
Baron's picture

Good Morning Dave, 

I've burried right now and so I haven't had time to investigate. I was going to go to Google but I need to be sure. My website is hosted by Google as well as my email. Do you have any other options? I'm hoping someone will solve this soon.

clam lake dave
clam lake dave's picture

Dito, IF you get it figured out post to the forum.

You would think the people at norwood would solve the problem.

Baron
Baron's picture

I rest my case!

oneoldcoot
oneoldcoot's picture

The way I do it is post the pic on facebook then copy it from there and paste here. Then if I want I can delete it. You just have to make sure the pic is about a meg or it is too big for here.

I am thinking of getting on igab which is a free speech alternative to fake book maybe a forum there would work.

 

Dogluvr
Dogluvr's picture

Hey Barron,

I have the G0586 8" Jointer I purchased a few years ago. It has been a great jointer. I have not upgraded to the spiral blades, but may in the future. I have been gone from the forum for a while while I was constructing an office building for a client. Just got my HD36 out and setup. My son-in-law and grandson had a great time using it. 

For those interested, I have been building a wood gasifier and CNC plasma table. I plan to use the table to cut parts to complete the gasifier and make some components for the sawmill. I am planning to add my own hydraulics to make the mill easier to use. Not getting any younger.

A friend gave me a 20KW genset with 380 hrs on it. The low voltage wiring shorted out and fried the wiring. I am replacing all of the wiring and converting the controls to digital. I have a long term plan to use the gasifier to run the genset and take the homestead off the grid, add solar and battery backup. Lots of projects. Learning a lot along the way.

Been following comments on the forum.

Good to be back

Burt

Bill
Bill's picture

Looking forward to watching your progress with the projects Burt.

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

Dogluvr

I'm very interested in the gassifier.  I've played with them some, and concluded that the best way to use it on the mill would be to convert the mill to electric and use a genset.  Hope you'll keep us posted on that project!

Baron
Baron's picture

Bill, I'm with you. I look forward to watching Burt and Dave get these rigs rolling. It interests me but it's even more fun when someone else does the work. The older I get the more I feel like a gassifier and I'm not even old yet.

 

 

Dogluvr
Dogluvr's picture

Bill, Postie and Barron,

I have the CNC plasma cutter almost completed. I need it to complete cutting out parts for the gasifier and sawmill. Postie, my goal is to get my place off the grid and be as self sufficient as I can. The gasifier can certainly run the mill, but i plan to run the genrator with it, in which case I might look at an electric motor conversion. Generator wiring is almost complete. Finally got to use the mill last weekend. I will post pics as soon as I figure out how to get them on this site. As long as this has been an issue, you would think the site developer would come up with a solutuion. It can't be that hard.

Burt

Baron
Baron's picture

So I have the above mentioned Jointer and it has a thin but even coating of rust on it such as what would be expected after being in humid truck storage. I can remove it my way but then there may not be anything left. I'd love to hear how you would clean and protect it if it was about to enter your shop. it will be keept in an unheated trailer body. Dry but more humid than a garage or heated space.

 

Thanks in Advance!

 

 

eddiemac
eddiemac's picture

Highland Woodworking has lots of tips on rust prevention, such as:    https://woodworkingtooltips.com/?p=145

wayne busse
wayne busse's picture

I use a rust-removal product from the local farm store. Before i paint any steel projects I make, I clean the surface to remove any rust or dirt. On really rusty stuff it may take a few applications along with some sanding. It leaves a residue that prevents any new rust. On the cast iron tops, I finish up with some paste wax. 

The product comes in a squirt bottle. Be carefull not to get it in your eyes, Its some type of acid, burns like crazy...

We bought a 16' jet planer last summer before I knew anything about sprilal cutter heads. I like the planer but we're going to sell it and buy one with the spiral head They are so easy to change a single cutter instead of the whole knife. We keep getting nicks in the blade even though the lumber is spotless. We found one culprit, it was a tiny triangle of steel, looked very much like a point off a  tooth from the band blade.

The spiral cutters do a cleaner job with less tearout than straight blades. They are carbide so they last much longer than high speed steel. An after maket head costs almost as much as a new planer did so I'll just swap planers.

 I almost bought a used 8" joiner at the local comercial woodworking  supply store but changed my mind when a saw the new cutter heads. I feel the straight cutter heads are obsolete, and are soon to be extinct and only found in bone yards.

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

Might see if spiral head cutters are available as a retrofit to your Jet planer.  I just put a Grizzly spiral head on my Bridgewood planer, and it was a perfect fit.  Seems there are only a few manufacturers (in China, of course), and they just paint them differently for different brands.  Much more interchangeable than you'd think.  You're right about straight blades becoming obsolete.  I won't miss 'em.