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UpNorthCutter
UpNorthCutter's picture
sawblade is going up/down

for my 1" cuts. tension is what I normally have it at, 6+ full turns. Boards are wavy.What am I doing wrong? LM 29.

eddiemac
eddiemac's picture

When in doubt, change to a new blade.  Causes of wavy boards are: dull blade, not enough tension, slipping pulley belts, severely underset blades, pushing too fast on hard wood (or through knots), and trying to cut something that's just plain difficult like dry osage orange or seriously seasoned oak.  Also check the roller bearings  -  spin the band by hand (under tension) and check to see that there is about 1/8" between the back of the band and the lip on the roller bearing.  Adjust if necessary.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

I find different blades from different sources need different tension. I tighten until it bottoms out, then back 1/2 turn, unless it is getting really tough to tighten. So, in some ways, I go by how much I have to twist the handle.

UpNorthCutter
UpNorthCutter's picture

Hi Garrison

I really appreciate your reply. I am new to this sawying. I always find it hard to know what tension to set my blades at for sure. I am still on my 1st box of same blades from Norwood. I have done lots of googling and calling Norwood tech too. Their answer was basically that I have to find out for myself? Well if you are new to it, ha, how do I find out. I have read that I can tighten too much and strip my bolts. I am afraid to do this. This may be a stupid question,, how do I know the difference between bottoming out and tough to tighten as you say? How much you have to "Twist" the handle? I can see a part of the torque adjustment mechanism move back as I tighten. You can see this on the top of the engine base to the left of the tension adjustment.Is this a bottom out indication? Regards

Frankie

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

Do you have a pull start engine? If so, how much effort do you put into starting the engine. 

Assume that when there is no tension on the blade, you can turn the handle with two fingers, then the friction isn't too tight.

So, if that is the case...

When you put as much effort into tightening the blade as you do when you pull the cord to start the engine, that is a rough starting point. If you still have wavy cuts, tighten another half turn at a time, see if it reduces the wavy cuts. If so, you are on the right track.

 

I would suggest making cuts about 1/2 inch from each other, so you don't waste too much of your log.

 

NOTE: One other thing to check: The rollers.

The sawblade should just ride on the rollers, not be deflected more than just a fraction from straight. If the blade is held by the rollers, that may be an issue.

Also, the back of the blade should be just a bit in front of the back of the roller, not pushing tightly against the back of the roller. If it is pushing, then the roller may be holding it forward, which may make it cut uneven.

DaveM
DaveM's picture

Are the dips & rises usually in the same places ?  By this I mean over the same spot or spots on the mill bed ?  If so, your bed & tracks may not be perfectly flat.